Ajrak Colours and Motifs: What the Patterns Are Called and What They Mean
A traditional Ajrak is printed in deep indigo and crimson red, with black and white used to outline its geometric patterns. The indigo traditionally comes from the indigo plant and the red from madder root. The motifs are mostly repeating geometric shapes, stars and flowers. Many have names, such as chunri, anbi, bel, butta and jaal, and you'll see those names in Ajrak product titles, including ours.
Where does the word Ajrak come from?
There are two common explanations, and neither has been settled.
- It comes from the Arabic azrak, meaning blue, after the indigo at the centre of the craft.
- It comes from the Persian ajar, meaning brick, with -ak, meaning small. That would describe the small repeated shapes laid out like bricks.
You'll also see the spelling Ajrakh, usually for the craft in Kutch, India. We explain the difference in Ajrak vs Ajrakh.
What do the colours of Ajrak mean?
The four colours of a classic Ajrak each have a job.
- Indigo blue comes from the indigo plant, which once grew widely along the Indus.
- Crimson red comes from madder root.
- Black outlines the motifs and sharpens the geometry.
- White is the undyed cloth left showing where a resist paste blocked the dye.
Writers on Ajrak often say the red stands for the earth and the indigo for the sky or twilight. That's a popular reading rather than a documented rule, so treat it as one interpretation.
Modern Ajrak uses a wider range, including black bases, maroon, green and grey. Our pieces are printed with organic dyes, and you can read how the dyeing works in how hand block printing is done.
Common Ajrak motif names
Motif names come from Sindhi and Urdu words, and printers don't always use them the same way. Here's what the names on our products refer to.
| Name | What it looks like | Example |
|---|---|---|
| Chunri | Fine dots in patterns, inspired by bandhani tie-dye | Black Chunri two-piece |
| Anbi | A curved mango shape, the same family as paisley | Anbi Butta two-piece |
| Bel | A climbing vine or creeper, often used as a border or running line | Floral Bel two-piece |
| Butta / butti | A single flower or sprig repeated across the cloth. Butti is the smaller version. | Black Floral Butti |
| Jaal | A net or lattice pattern covering the whole surface | Floral Jaal two-piece |
Some of our prints are newer designs named after what they resemble, like Moroccan, inspired by tile patterns, or Chinar Leaf. They use the same hand block printing method as the traditional motifs.
How old are Ajrak patterns?
Nobody can date Ajrak precisely. The famous "Priest-King" statue from Mohenjo-daro wears a robe patterned with trefoils, and many people believe it shows an early form of Ajrak. That's an interpretation, not a proven link. More solid evidence comes from printed cotton fragments dated to the 11th to 14th centuries, resist-dyed in indigo and madder, that look very close to Ajrak. For the longer story, read the history of hand block printing.
Why traditional Ajrak is printed on both sides
A traditional Ajrak is printed and dyed on both faces of the cloth. That deepens the colours and means there's no plain back showing when it's worn as a turban or thrown over the shoulder. Not every modern Ajrak is made this way, so it's worth checking the reverse when you buy. Our guide on identifying genuine hand block printing covers other signs.
Frequently asked questions
What are the traditional colours of Ajrak?
Deep indigo blue and crimson red, with black and white used to outline the patterns.
What does the word Ajrak mean?
There are two explanations. One links it to the Arabic azrak, meaning blue. The other links it to the Persian ajar, meaning brick, with -ak, meaning small.
What is the anbi motif?
A curved mango shape, related to paisley.
What is chunri Ajrak?
Ajrak printed with fine dot patterns inspired by bandhani tie-dye.
Which natural dyes are used in Ajrak?
Traditionally, indigo for blue and madder root for red.