Cotton vs Lawn Ajrak: Which Should You Buy?
Choose lawn if you want something light for hot or humid weather. Choose cotton if you want more body, for cooler months or for cuts that need to hold their shape. Both are cotton fabrics, and both take Ajrak hand block printing well. Many of our two-pieces come in either fabric at the same price, so the choice is about when and how you'll wear it.
What's the difference between lawn and cotton?
Lawn is a fine, tightly woven cotton. It's thin, light and soft, and it drapes close to the body. When people in Pakistan say "cotton" for a suit, they usually mean a thicker cotton that feels firmer in the hand and holds its own shape.
On our Black Chunri two-piece, for example, the 100% cotton option has more body and the lawn option is lighter with a softer drape. Both have a 2.5 metre shirt and a 2.5 metre dupatta, 42 to 44 inches wide.
Cotton and lawn side by side
| Lawn | Cotton | |
|---|---|---|
| Feel | Thin, light, soft | Thicker, firmer |
| Drape | Flows and falls close to the body | Stands away from the body a little |
| Best season | Summer, humid weather | Cooler months, air-conditioned offices |
| Best cuts | Loose kurtas, kaftans, flowy dupattas | Straight shirts, A-line kurtas, angrakhas |
| Ironing | Creases easily, irons quickly | Creases less once pressed |
| Price at Sartiyoon | The same on most two-pieces | |
Is Ajrak good for winter?
Cotton Ajrak is a good choice for mild winters, like Karachi's, and for cool evenings elsewhere. It isn't a winter fabric in the way wool or khaddar is, though. In Lahore or Islamabad in December, you'll want to layer it.
The easiest layer is an Ajrak chaadar over a cotton suit, or a cardigan or coat over a cotton kurta. Our winter collection has the cotton options together in one place.
Which fabric is better for stitching?
It depends on the design you have in mind.
- Lawn suits loose and flowing shapes: a long kurta, a kaftan, or anything with gathers. Light colours in lawn can be a little sheer, so ask your tailor about a lining.
- Cotton suits shapes that need structure: a straight shirt with a collar, an A-line kurta, or an angrakha with a wrap front.
Cotton can shrink slightly in its first wash. Washing the fabric once before it goes to the tailor avoids a shirt that's tighter after you wash it at home.
Does the print look different on cotton and lawn?
The motifs are the same, because the same wooden blocks are used. On lawn, the colours can look a little lighter because the fabric is thinner. On cotton, the print can look slightly deeper. These differences are small, and every hand block printed piece varies a little anyway. That's part of how you can tell it was made by hand.
Caring for cotton and lawn Ajrak
The care is the same for both:
- Wash separately in cold water for the first few washes. Deep black and indigo dyes can release a little colour at first, which is normal.
- Hand wash with a mild detergent. Don't bleach or scrub the printed areas.
- Press the water out rather than wringing.
- Dry in the shade, and iron on low heat, inside out if you can.
Our full care guide goes into more detail.
Our recommendation
If you'll wear it mostly from April to September, buy lawn. If you'll wear it mostly from November to February, or you want a crisp, structured shirt, buy cotton. If you're stuck, cotton is the safer all-round choice, since you can wear it in more of the year with a light layer.
Browse unstitched Ajrak two-pieces, or read how to choose an Ajrak dress for more on prints and fit.
Frequently asked questions
Is lawn the same as cotton?
Lawn is a type of cotton fabric. It's woven more finely, so it's thinner and lighter than the cotton used for winter suits.
Which is better for summer, cotton or lawn Ajrak?
Lawn. It's lighter and lets air through more easily.
Can I wear Ajrak in winter?
Yes. Cotton Ajrak works for mild winters. In colder cities, layer it with a chaadar, shawl or coat.
Does cotton Ajrak shrink?
Cotton can shrink slightly in the first wash. Wash it once in cold water before stitching.
Is lawn Ajrak see-through?
Darker lawn usually isn't. Some light-coloured lawn can be a little sheer, and a lining solves that.